The Fuji X100F is the fourth model of the X100 series and Fuji has constantly improved the specs while preserving what was already good. It’s a great way to add an energetic feeling of movement into an image. Documentary Photography. Sunyu Kim. This authenticity is one thing that makes street photography so compelling. You can use a faster shutter speed and include more depth of field in the photo and less grain (noise). Get out there! I don’t want to get too much into the particulars of the settings on each and every camera, but the setting has the following names on the four most common maker’s cameras (and the Ricoh GR because it’s a great street photography camera which I often use): To sum it all up, here are my specific recommendations (settings that I use 99% of the time): Aperture Priority mode, wide/area/matrix metering, max ISO set to 6400, min shutter speed set to 1/250. October 16, 2018 by Robin Wong. In these cases, you will want to lower the exposure compensation on your camera slightly (-). Whether you are shooting street photography during the day or at night, the world is a fast-moving place, and you need your camera to be able to capture those split-second moments. But this is also one of the more challenging types of photography to get right. It’s impossible to photograph this way and expose every image perfectly within the camera. I just leave it on Auto. They need to be interesting and look good and that’s what counts. I won’t go into the nitty gritty details of these autofocus systems, but some basic awareness of them is important, so you can better strategize what to focus on. There is no fancy AI predicting how to expose a scene. James also runs New York Photography Tours and Street Photography Workshops and is the author of the e-book, The Essentials of Street Photography. manual focus is a very viable option for street photography, New Photography Podcast Slams the Preset Industry: ‘You’re Making an Army of Clones’, Stunning Super Macro Photos of Minuscule Mushrooms and Fungi, Feast Your Eyes on the Jaw-Dropping Winners of International Landscape Photographer of the Year 2020, Apple Silicon is a True Game-Changer for Photographers, Chroma Cameras Has Launched a Modular Medium Format Film Camera, Canon Updates Firmware Across Camera Lines: R5, R6, 1DX III and More, This Drone Dives Up to 574 Feet Underwater, Features Sony Sensor, The iPhone 12 Pro Max: Real Pro Photography, Solo Developer Builds AI Cutout Tool That Stands Up To Adobe, Shooting with 35mm Film That Expired 20 Years Ago, 70 Inspirational Quotes for Photographers, Voigtlander Unveils Super Nokton 28mm f/0.8: The Fastest Working Lens, Nik Celebrates its 25th Anniversary with 25 New Presets, This Camera Was Used for Aerial Photos During WWII. Much is spoken about photographing during the twilight hour, but what about after that? Still on the topic of light sources, it’s important to know that artificial lights often add a bit (or a lot) of color to your image. Travel light with equipment and be careful about where you go. The technical advantage to this is that you do not need to use as fast a shutter speed to capture the motion of subjects when you are further away. They should be dark, with deep shadows and areas that are hard to see and make out. It also depends on how much Depth of Field I need, as aperture is one of the things that affects how much will be in focus (the other two being focus distance, and focal length). This article was also published here. Generally, if we want to “freeze the action” when photographing moving people (that is, getting little to no motion blur) I would recommend a shutter speed of at the very least 1/125 but more often 1/250 and as high as 1/500 in some cases. To freeze motion during the day, I prefer to use a shutter speed of 1/320th, with 1/160th as my lower threshold. One way to do this is “panning.” In this case, we could switch to Shutter Priority mode (or Manual mode) and select a shutter speed between say 1/30 and 1/60, and then follow moving subjects with the camera while shooting. Finally, you will need to raise your ISO significantly. Then I will use Lightroom’s grain settings to add grain back into the photo. Having said that, when I was learning the basics, I experimented with White Balance all the time! It will be bright and you will be able to see everything as you would during the day, but it will not feel like a realistic night scene.